One of the key parts of creating an effective skincare routine is making sure that the products you’re using don’t counteract each other. Vitamin A derivatives (i.e. retinols and retinoids) shouldn’t be used at the same time as benzoyl peroxide, while alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) don't always work well with vitamin C. Post-procedure (think: chemical peels and laser resurfacing), you’ll want to lay off most AHAs and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) to avoid further sensitizing the skin.
So, while some active ingredient combos should be avoided, there are also a number of duos that play quite nicely together. When used at the same time, these fusions can even boost each other’s efficacy, leaving you with smoother, brighter, and healthier skin. Here’s what you need to know about some of the most potent skincare ingredient pairings you should consider adding to your routine.
Vitamin C is perhaps the best-known antioxidant in skincare, but its cousin, vitamin E, is more of a lowkey heavy hitter — the ingredient is probably in both your skincare routine and diet without you realizing it. “Vitamin C increases skin brightness and delivers stable antioxidant activity, while vitamin E is a hydrating and skin-comforting antioxidant,” explains Renée Rouleau, a celebrity aesthetician and founder of her eponymous skincare line.
Vitamin C is notoriously difficult to formulate with, but it most commonly appears in beauty products as ‘L-ascorbic acid’ and ‘tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate.’ Vitamin E is usually found on product labels under the name ‘tocopherol,’ and it’s included in everything from moisturizers to serums. When it comes to teaming up with vitamin C, you can expect the duo to brighten, hydrate, and protect the skin.
While you can use this pairing as part of your morning or evening routine, there are added benefits to pairing it with another skincare staple: sunscreen. “Researchers have determined that using a lotion or serum with both vitamins C and E under sunscreen actually provides four times the protection of sunscreen alone, so this is an added benefit,” Rouleau notes.
Vitamin B3 (a.k.a. niacinamide) can tackle everything from acne and pigmentation to wrinkles and barrier function. Salicylic acid, on the other hand, is a BHA approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to treat acne. “If you have significant breakouts, you can turn to more potent acne-fighting ingredients such as salicylic acid, retinoids, or benzoyl peroxide,” Rouleau says.
So, where does the niacinamide come into play? “One of the advantages of niacinamide is that it can be safely combined with any of these ingredients to give added benefits — like hydrating and soothing the skin — and this can be especially beneficial,” she explains. Anyone who has ever tried to treat a pimple knows how harsh and drying acne-fighters can be, but pairing them with niacinamide may be the solution your complexion has been craving. “Niacinamide has been shown to increase tolerability of ingredients like retinol and retinoids, especially in sensitive skin types,” Rouleau notes.
There is a reason topical vitamin A is considered the gold standard of skincare — it can treat everything from acne to aging in a single product. “Vitamin A, found in retinol and retinoids, works to repair visible damage by encouraging collagen production, while reducing the look of wrinkles and large pores,” Rouleau explains.
Peptides are short-chain amino acids, and amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, like collagen, in the body. When applied topically, they permeate skin cells and help with growth and repair. “Peptides work to encourage tighter, firmer skin by strengthening chain links that hold skin layers together,” Rouleau explains. Pairing retinol and retinoids with peptides can increase their complexion-correcting properties. “Synergistically, they work for the greater good to achieve with a smoother, firmer look for the skin,” she says.
At this point, you know you should be using sunscreen everyday (rain or shine!). But, as we briefly mentioned earlier, pairing your SPF with vitamin C can better protect the skin from the sun and free radical damage. Is there a bigger win-win?
A 2013 study on the effectiveness of antioxidants with and without sunscreen found that:
Sunscreens when properly applied prevent UV-induced erythema and thymine dimer mutations that contribute to cutaneous carcinogenesis [skin cancer]. However, sunscreens block only 55 percent of the free radicals produced by UV exposure...To optimize UV protection, it is important to use sunscreens combined with a topical antioxidant. Vit. C does not absorb UV light but exerts an UV-protective effect by neutralizing free radicals, while this effect is not seen with sunscreens. Under laboratory conditions, it has been shown that application of 10 percent topical Vit. C showed statistical reduction of UVB-induced erythema [skin reddening] by 52 percent and sunburn cell formation by 40-60 percent.
Super-hydrator hyaluronic acid (HA) goes with pretty much everything, but, when it’s combined with acne-busting tea tree oil, it will help soothe any possible irritation the natural remedy may cause. “Tea tree oil and hyaluronic acid both make a great pairing when used in acne products,” Rouleau notes.
For the uninitiated, tea tree oil is derived from the leaves of the tea tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, and hailed for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. HA, on the other hand, is a humectant that can hold 1,000-times its weight in water. What happens when they’re combined? “Tea tree reduces microbial count on the skin’s surface to interrupt the breakout cycle, and hyaluronic acid delivers comfort and hydration to keep acne-prone skin in balance,” Rouleau shares.
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